All About Pearls | Aequa & Co.

ALL ABOUT

PEARL JEWELRY

Pearl jewelry has held cultural and symbolic significance throughout history, symbolizing purity, wealth, and social status. In ancient civilizations, such as Rome and China, pearls were associated with prosperity and believed to possess mystical properties. Over time, pearls have become timeless and classic accessories, often worn to convey elegance and sophistication in various cultures worldwide.

BIRTH OF A PEARL

FORMATION

Pearls form inside the shells of certain mollusks, most commonly oysters and mussels, as a natural defense mechanism in response to an irritant or foreign object that enters the shell. The process of pearl formation is called "biomineralization".

Irritation or Intrusion: The formation of a pearl begins when an irritant, such as a grain of sand, a parasite, or a piece of debris, enters the mollusk's shell and comes into contact with the mantle tissue.
Nacre Secretion: In response to the irritant, the mollusk secretes a combination of organic substances and calcium carbonate, known as nacre or mother-of-pearl, to coat the irritant. This layering process helps smooth the irritant and prevents further irritation to the mollusk.
Layering: Over time, the mollusk continues to deposit layers of nacre around the irritant, forming concentric layers. These layers create the lustrous and iridescent appearance characteristic of pearls.
Pearl Growth: The process of nacre deposition continues, and the pearl gradually grows in size. The shape and size of the resulting pearl depend on various factors, including the type of mollusk, the size of the irritant, and environmental conditions.
Harvesting: Once the pearl reaches a desirable size and shape, it can be harvested. Cultured pearls, a common type of pearls in the market, are intentionally cultivated by introducing a nucleus or irritant into the mollusk, with the process closely monitored to produce pearls with specific characteristics.

CATEGORIES

Categorical differences between pearl types.

Saltwater

Created by oysters in saltwater environments such as oceans and seas. Popular types include:

Akoya Pearls: Cultivated primarily in Japan and China, Akoya pearls are known for their round shape, high luster, and typically white or cream color.

Tahitian Pearls: Cultivated in French Polynesia, Tahitian pearls are notable for their larger size and distinctive dark colors, including black, gray, and green.

South Sea Pearls: Cultivated in the waters of Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines, South Sea pearls are among the largest cultured pearls and are prized for their size, luster, and often white or golden hues.

Freshwater

Freshwater pearls are a type of pearl that is formed within various species of freshwater mussels, primarily in rivers, lakes, and ponds:

Chinese Freshwater Pearls: Often available in a variety of shapes and colors, Chinese freshwater pearls have become increasingly popular and are cultivated in various regions of China.

Biwa Pearls: Historically associated with Lake Biwa in Japan, these pearls were initially produced in Lake Biwa, but cultivation has shifted to other locations due to environmental changes.

Edison Pearls: Named after inventor Thomas Edison, Edison pearls are a relatively recent development in freshwater pearl cultivation. They are known for their large size, round shapes, and vibrant colors, making them particularly appealing to those seeking a bold and modern look.

Natural

Pearls formed in the wild. Natural pearls are considered rare and valuable due to the unpredictable and uncontrollable nature of their formation. Harvesting natural pearls involves searching for them in the wild, typically by divers. This traditional method is labor-intensive, and the yield of natural pearls is limited. When available, they are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts for their uniqueness and historical significance.

Cultured

Due to the scarcity of natural pearls and the development of cultured pearl farming techniques, the vast majority of pearls available today are cultured. Natural and cultured pearls form through the same processes.

QUAILTY & ATTRIBUTES

What determines a pearl's value, subjectively or objectively.

Color

Pearls come in a variety of natural colors, including white, cream, pink, peach, lavender, peacock, and various shades of gray. The color is influenced by the mussel's environment, or can be dyed.

Luster

Luster is a crucial factor in a pearl's beauty. High-quality pearls can exhibit a lustrous, iridescent surface. The luster is a result of the layers of nacre and how they interact with light.

Size

Pearls can vary in size, typically ranging from 2mm to 16mm or more. Larger pearls are generally more valuable.

Surface Quality

Blemishes, spots, or irregularities. Pearls with a clean, smooth surface are considered more valuable than those with noticeable imperfections.

Nacre Thickness

Nacre is the iridescent substance that forms the layers of a pearl. Pearls with a thick layer of nacre are considered higher quality and more valuable. Thicker nacre tends to enhance the durability and longevity of the pearl.

Origin

The geographic origin of a pearl can influence its value. Some regions are known for producing pearls with specific characteristics. For example, pearls from certain Japanese or Australian waters may carry prestige and command higher prices.

Cultivation

Whether a pearl is natural or cultured can affect its value. Natural pearls, formed without human intervention, are rare and often more valuable.

POPULAR SHAPES

The variety of shapes available.

Round

Some freshwater pearls are nearly spherical, resembling traditional Akoya or South Sea pearls. These are classic and timeless, suitable for various jewelry styles.

Baroque

Baroque pearls have irregular and non-symmetrical shapes. They can vary widely and may include twists, turns, and unique contours. Baroque pearls offer a more artistic and organic look, suitable for creative and eclectic designs.

Button

These have a flattened appearance, resembling a button or a disc. Often used in earrings or other designs where a flat back is desirable.

Potato

Potato, or 'off round', is a subset of baroque pearls categorized by their nearly-round shape. These pearls often have a slightly textured or dimpled surface, which adds to their natural and organic appearance. The surface imperfections can give each pearl a unique and individual character.

Rice Krispies

These pearls are small and typically elongated, resembling rice grains or "Rice Krispies." They are available in various colors and are often used in contemporary and casual jewelry designs.